Bentley Motors has a history full of turns and twists and quite an interesting one too! Lets skim through its pages.

The manufacturing of the Bentley started with a 3-litre engine car which was very advanced for its times. It had four cylinders, single overhead camshaft, four valves per cylinder and twin-spark ignition via two magnetos. But it did make some noise. It is said, that this noise once irritated a nurse who was attending to a dying patient. To everyone’s surprise, a person present there had then said ‘A happy sound to die to”! Such was the beginning of the Bentley!

The Bentley was and is primarily known as a racing car. It has won many Le Mans trophies. The Le Mans is a 24-hour car endurance test held in France. It tests a car to it limits and those who can sustain the grill, command tremendous respect and awe in the automobile market. These races also provided a huge advertisement for the Bentley. The first Bentley,the 3-litre car, participated and came a very respectable 4th!

From then on, there was no looking back and Bentley motors went on to make some of the finest cars ever known. Sometimes the manufacturing was so slow that the cars were made just before delivery and at times even the demonstration cars had to be sold. But their popularity never ceased to soar. In reality fewer people bought them due to their high prices but still everyone secretly thought of taking control of one of these. After a few years, it was announced that Bentley Motors would retire from racing as they were falling short of money. As well as this, all the rash race driving was giving the common man a very bad impression about the car. Some people were wary of buying the car, as they saw it as a symbol of rough driving. Somewhat in order to break this image, Bentley Motors manufactured a bewitching limousine passenger car. But by this time, the great depression had taken its toll on Bentley Motors, leaving it in financial doldrums. Hence it was decided to sell the firm. Thus Rolls Royce took over Bentley Motors in a very dramatic manner in 1931. At that time Bentley was the most formidable rival of Rolls Royce and the world saw this as a mega deal for Rolls Royce. Actually it was good news for Bentley (in one way at least), that their baby would at least be in some experienced hands. Thus the Bentley was actually with Bentley Motors only till 1931.

The Volkswagen Group ,a German company, has been the owner of Bentley since 1998. The Bentleys are manufactured at the Crewe factory in England.

The various current and popular models of this car are Arnage, Azure, Continental GT, Continental Flying Spur and Continental GTC.

Luxury, elegance and comfort characterize all the Bentleys. Features like emergency fuel shut-off device, child safety door locks located on rear doors, engine immobilizer, front seatbelt height adjusters, fog lights, anti-theft protection, airbags with occupant sensors, computers keeping track of average speed, average fuel consumption, instantaneous fuel consumption and range for remaining fuel, keyless entry operated via key fob, tire pressure monitor, separate driver/front passenger climate controls, rear window defroster, heated washer system, bluetooth incorporated telephone system, electric foldable mirrors, ashtrays, full maps, remote controlled DVD, several speakers, headlight cleaners, leather seats, tinted glass ,a variety of interior lighting, etc. make the Bentley, a precious buy. The Azure also has a sunroof/moonroof and a removable/convertible top!

The Bentley cars are immediately recognizable by the huge headlights they flaunt. But unlike their easy to spot features, they are very difficult and intricate to make! The Bentley is known as a highly reliable, sturdy and versatile car. Versatile, as it combines uncompromising luxury with enviable performance and reliability.

You don’t need a garage, as indoor storage facilities are plentiful. Most “mini-storage” type places will gladly rent storage spaces big enough for vehicles. Additionally, try to find someone who can “exercise” the vehicle every month or two. Although it’s an additional expense in your vehicle budget, proper long term storage will save you money on restoration when you’re ready to drive your dream car again.

You can never be too clean for storage, so the first thing you want to do is clean the vehicle. Wait for a dry warm day and give your car a complete wash and wax. Be sure to get the underbody as clean as possible too- particularly wheel well areas. Any dirt will hold moisture and combine with air, causing rust propagation.

A thorough cleaning is in order for the interior, also. Use a shop vacuum or household vacuum cleaner, getting into all the little nooks and crannies. All crumbs, pizza crusts, French fries etc. must go. Otherwise small creatures will be drawn to it and make their home inside your vehicle.
To go the extra mile, a good carpet will help discourage them. Do all this early in the day to allow time to dry before putting the car in storage.

Take the spark plugs out and put some oil into the cylinders. This prevents cylinder walls, pistons and valves from rusting. Regular motor oil is fine or get a spray can of fogging oil from a marine supply store. Turn over the engine by hand half a dozen times to ensure the oil coats everything.
Next apply a little anti-seize compound on the spark plugs and reinstall them. Make sure the gas tank is full. This will decrease the amount of water available to be absorbed by the gasoline.

For the electrical system, remove the battery cables (negative cable first) and lift out the battery.
Wipe the battery with battery cleaner to take away any moisture-holding dirt or grease. Place the battery on a clean, dry surface, like a block of wood or a stack of bricks.
Now hook up a trickle charger. These are designed to preserve the battery’s charge over a long period of time. While the battery is out, inspect the battery rack for rust or corrosion. Clean and repair any damage as necessary.

Lubricate hood latches, hinges and door hinges white lithium grease to keep air and moisture out.
Have a look at the brake fluid. Brake fluid will soak up moisture from the air, causing your brake system to rust and corrode. Get it flushed and filled with clean, fresh fluid if it hasn’t been done in two years or more.
Check the coolant level- ensure it is topped off to the proper level. Also check the coolant’s protection level. It should be low enough to protect the cooling system from winter temperatures.

Because rodents and other small animals like to chew ignition wires and wiring harnesses, stuff clean rags into the engine air intake, fresh air intake under the windshield and tail pipe. A neat trick a mechanic told me about is to get a big box of mothballs and spread them out around and under the car- for some reason the smell works wonders at keeping undesirable creatures away.

Tires are prone to developing flat spots if the vehicle will be sitting for longer than five or six months. To prevent this you should get a set of four jack stands. Jack up the vehicle and place the jack stands under the lift points of the vehicle (usually the lower control arms or under the frame) If you have a dirt floor, place pieces of 1″ plywood under the jack stands to prevent them sinking into the dirt.

Remove the wiper blades from the wiper arms to prevent them from becoming glued to the windshield and leaving marks.
The last thing you need to do is- nothing!
That’s it. Lock up and enjoy knowing your precious car is sleeping in suspended animation, awaiting your return.

• The left lane is for passing. If you are going to pass, do it quickly and safely. Some states have laws that prohibit “driving” in the left lane, leaving it open for passing only.
• If someone is trying to merge onto the highway and you have room, get into the left lane. This can help avoid an accident or at the least make someone’s day a little brighter.
• Be aware of large trucks and their driving styles. Tractor trailers, dump trucks, and other large vehicles can not stop as fast as you can. Keep that in mind the next time you squeeze in front of a truck at the stop light. Also, heavy trucks while on the highway will slow down while going up large hills but pick up speed on the downhill side. This can lead to a game of leap frog which will frustrate you and the truck driver. If possible get far enough ahead of the truck to avoid excessive passing!
• Use your turn signals. I swear they were an option in some cars, considering most people do not use them. They are there as a signal to inform your fellow drivers where you plan to go.

I guess this has been a list of my pet peeves, but I hope it will help you have a safer trip down the road. Remember, we all share the road and together we can make it safer.

Take care and safe driving,

Lots of people hate buying cars. When you get right down to it, the root causes of this fear and loathing aren’t hard to pin down.

1. Fear of the unknown.
2. Buying a car is a confrontational situation.
3. It’s a huge commitment of time and money.

Well, okay, that’s great, but how does that help you? Patience, grasshopper.

While there’s no magical silver bullet to cure all of the above ills, a little confidence can go a long way. If you act uncertain and unsure, chances are you will get taken for a ride. This applies to every step of the process, not just when you’re checking out cars on the showroom floor.

So what do you do? I mean, great, be confident. But what does that mean?

Be decisive. Know exactly what kind of car you want and exactly what you want to pay. Do your homework first and research everything you can find. The Internet is the most powerful research tool ever devised by man. Use it.

Show, don’t tell. Print copies of everything you find. Don’t just tell a dealer that you got a better price quote online. Show them. Don’t just say that you thought your credit was good enough to qualify for a better rate. Show them.

Know thyself. Not everyone handles every situation well. If you know you’re going to have a hard time negotiating and haggling over the price (which you will) then find someone who can. Even if you don’t have a friend or loved one skilled in the art of car buying, you can usually find car buying services listed in the Yellow Pages major cities than can help you out for a small fee.

A little confidence does indeed go a long, long way.

As fuel is burned in the engine, about one-third of the energy in the fuel is converted into power. Another third goes out the exhaust pipe unused, and the remaining third becomes heat energy.

A cooling system of some kind is necessary in any internal combustion engine. If no cooling system were provided, parts would melt from the heat of the burning fuel, and the pistons would expand so much they could not move in the cylinders (called “seize”).

The cooling system of a water-cooled engine consists of: the engine’s water jacket, a thermostat, a water pump, a radiator and radiator cap, a cooling fan (electric or belt-driven), hoses, the heater core, and usually an expansion (overflow) tank.

Fuel burning engines produce enormous amounts of heat; temperatures can reach up to 4,000 degrees F when the air-fuel mixture burns. However, normal operating temperature is about 2,000 degrees F. The cooling system removes about one-third of the heat produced in the combustion chamber.

The exhaust system takes away much of the heat, but parts of the engine, such as the cylinder walls, pistons, and cylinder head, absorb large amounts of the heat. If a part of the engine gets too hot, the oil film fails to protect it. This lack of lubrication can ruin the engine.

On the other hand, if an engine runs at too low a temperature, it is inefficient, the oil gets dirty (adding wear and subtracting horsepower), deposits form, and fuel mileage is poor– not to mention exhaust emissions! For these reasons, the cooling system is designed to stay out of the action until the engine is warmed up.

There are two types of cooling systems; liquid cooling and air cooling. Most auto engines are cooled by the liquid type; air cooling is used more frequently for airplanes, motorcycles and lawnmowers.

Liquid cooled engines have passages for the liquid, or coolant, through the cylinder block and head. The coolant has to have indirect contact with such engine parts as the combustion chamber, the cylinder walls, and the valve seats and guides. Running through the passages in the engine heats the coolant (it absorbs the heat from the engine parts), and going through the radiator cools it. After getting “cool” again in the radiator, the coolant comes back through the engine. This business continues as long as the engine is running, with the coolant absorbing and removing the engine’s heat, and the radiator cooling the coolant.

A cooling system pressure tester is used to check the pressure in the cooling system, which allows the mechanic to determine if the system has any slow leaks. The leak can then be found and fixed before it causes a major problem.

Common Problems:

Let’s look at the common problems cars have with the cooling system.

• Broken hose. Hoses wear out and can leak. Once the coolant has left the system it can no longer cool the engine and it overheats.
• Broken fan belt. The water pump is driven by the engine through a belt. If the belt breaks the water pump can not turn and coolant will not be circulated through the engine. This will also lead to engine overheating.
• Faulty radiator cap. The radiator cap is designed to hold a certain pressure in the coolant system. Most caps hold 8 – 12 PSI. This pressure raises the point in which the coolant will boil and maintains a stable system. If your cap does not hold pressure, then the car could overheat on hot days since the system never becomes pressurized.
• Water pump failure. Most commonly you will hear a screeching noise and will be able to see coolant leaking from the front of the pump or under the car. Early signs are small spots of coolant under the car after being parked overnight and a strong coolant odor while driving.
• Head gasket… have large amounts of white smoke flowing out of your exhaust? Could be a head gasket. The head gasket seals the cylinder head to the engine block and also seals the coolant passages. When this gasket fails coolant can enter the cylinder and it will be turned to vapor as the engine fires. Head gaskets most often fail after the engine has experienced an overheating situation. When super hot, the cylinder head can warp and allow the gasket to fail.

Preventive Maintenance:

• Check all belts and hoses regularly. (at oil change is a good time)
• Look out for coolant leaks underneath the car, they could be signs of trouble to come.
• Change your coolant every 2 – 3 years depending on the manufactorers recommendations.
• Inspect your radiator cap for deterioration of the rubber seal. Replace if you think it is worn. $5 – $10 is cheap insurance.
• Have your coolant system flushed every 5 years. It gets all the corrosion which has built up out of the system.

What to discuss with your mechanic:

• Let your mechanic know when your overheating problems occur. Overheating when idling points to a different problem than overheating at highway speeds.
• Ask your mechanic if it’s worth changing the timing belt or chain while he is replacing your water pump. Many times the timing belt turns the water pump so it has to be removed anyway to access the water pump.

WARNING: Never open your radiator when the engine is hot. The pressure in the system can cause hot coolant to splash out and burn you.

Put a good heavy coat of wax on your car before the winter storms hit. This heavy coat will protect your paint from the corrosive salt and cold temperatures.

• Wash the underside of your car often during the winter months. Salt and chemicals will collect under the vehicle and slowly start eating away at your car.
• Skip the undercoating unless you are buying a new car. Applying undercoating after a car has been on the road for a year or two is pointless. The metal has already started to rust and there is bound to be water stuck in places it does not belong. Once you undercoat, you trap that water or rust and allow it to destroy your car.
• Avoid driving through large puddles of standing water. This water is loaded with salt and will get thrown into all the cracks and crevices of your car.
• When springtime rolls around, treat your car to a good wax job again. Make sure to get all of the road grime and salt off of the car before you begin waxing.

With proper care and love, you body will stay in shape for years to come.

• Engine oil – Usually towards the front of the engine and marked “OIL” Always check your oil level with the engine OFF. Remove the dipstick and wipe the oil off with the rag or towel then put the dipstick back into the hole. Now pull out and get a reading. You might have to hold the dipstick to the light to get a good reading as fresh oil can sometimes be hard to see. On the dipstick there will be two marks indicating a maximum and minimum level for the oil. Make it a habit of checking your oil every two weeks.
• Transmission fluid – If you have an automatic transmission then you will have a dipstick to check the fluid level. It is most commonly found towards the back of the engine compartment or towards the passenger side. You should find out how to check the fluid by looking at the owner’s manual or on the dipstick itself. Most cars have to be running with the transmission in park or neutral. Also the transmission should be warmed up to give a true reading. Make sure the car has been driven for a short distance to make sure everything is up to operating temperature. Checking the level is just like checking your oil, wipe off dipstick, replace, pull out again and check level. If you have a manual transmission there is no dipstick and to check the fluid level you must crawl under the car and remove a fill plug. I would have your mechanic check this for you once a year if you do not feel comfortable doing this.
• Engine coolant – — CAUTION — Never open your radiator cap when the engine is hot ! The pressure in the system can send hot coolant splashing out on to you. Most cars have an overflow bottle, which will have level markings. Keep the coolant between these markings. If you have to open the radiator, make sure the engine is cold.
• Power steering fluid – Your car uses oil to assist in steering the car. The fluid is usually checked at the pump, but can be away from the pump in a separate reservoir. Like the transmission, this fluid should also be checked when up to operating temperature. Most commonly the level is measured by a small dipstick attached to the cap of the reservoir.
• Brake fluid – On most newer cars you can check brake fluid level without removing the cap on the master cylinder. There will be level markings on the side of the plastic reservoir. If you have to remove the cover to check the fluid level, be careful not to spill any fluid on the surrounding paint. Brake fluid makes a nice paint remover
• Windshield washer fluid – That’s the magic blue liquid that squirts out of your hood. Most reservoirs have the level marked on the side but some newer cars have them buried underneath everything so you can not see. Just fill to the top, there is no harm in overfilling.

If you need to add any fluids to bring the levels up, a funnel is helpful to avoid spills. Keep track of how often you add oil, and transmission fluid. Frequent additions can point to leaks and engine wear.

Answer the following questions to help decide which kind of vehicle is right for you:

How many people will you be transporting?
How long is your commute?
What kind of gas mileage do you expect?
What conditions will you be driving in?
Which safety features do you want?
What size of vehicle do you want?
Do you want an automatic or manual transmission?

Step #2 : How Much Can You Afford to Spend?

In order to distinguish the range of vehicles, you must decide how much you can afford to spend. Remember to take into consideration additional costs such as title, tax, registration, insurance, and additional costs. In most cases when you are going to finance the vehicle, it is best to get preapproved so that you will know how much you can spend. Other questions to ask yourself are:

How much can you put down as a down payment?
How much can you afford to pay in monthly payments?

Step #3 : Will You Buy the Vehicle or Lease It?

Deciding on whether to buy or lease your vehicle is an important decision. If you plan on keeping the vehicle once it is paid off, then you will want to buy the vehicle. On the other hand, if you just wish to drive the vehicle and not obtain ownership, then you may want to just lease the vehicle. Normally the price for leasing a vehicle is considerably less than purchasing the vehicle, since you are just leasing the right to drive it.

Step #4 : Decide on Which Vehicles You Wish to Consider

This is the time when you want to pick out the makes and models of the vehicles you are considering. By answering the questions listed in step #1, you should have some idea of which vehicles you wish to consider.

Step #5 : Find the Vehicles

Visit http://www.autopixal.com/buy/ and find the vehicles you are interested in. Be sure to select the correct distance, price, and year of the vehicles you are interested in.

Step #6 : Research the Vehicles

Compare the prices of similar vehicles. Use our website to find other vehicles that may not be within the distance you selected, but have the same options you selected. Use the articles under the research section to find additional information to help assist you in your decision.

Step #7 : Find the Market Value of the Vehicles

Use the market value tools at http://www.autopixal.com/research/vehiclevalue/ to find the market value of the vehicles you are considering. By finding the market value, you can use that to your advantage in negotiating the price.

Step #8 : Schedule a Test Drive

Contact the seller and schedule a test drive. When taking the vehicle for a test drive, be sure to take the vehicle into different driving conditions. The Interstate or Downtown are two places in which you may want to drive the vehicle. Also be sure to listen for vibrations or noises caused by the vehicle while driving.

Step #9 : Negotiate the Price

Inspect the vehicle to see if you can find any additional elements that you can use in your negotiations. Small problems can serve to your advantage when they are presented. Take into consideration any problems you may have found while driving or inspecting the vehicle, and the market value of the vehicle when deciding on a price. Don’t jump the gun with your offer. Give the seller time to consider the fact that you may not be too interested in the vehicle and the seller may lower the price in hopes of closing the deal.

Step #10 : Close the Deal

Find out any information you may need to know about the vehicle from the seller. Contact your insurance provider, or use the Insurance section of our website, along with the Vin# from the vehicle in order to obtain insurance for your vehicle. Then transfer the title and register the vehicle in your name. Depending on your state’s laws, the requirements for buying a vehicle may vary. Contact your local DMV for additional information.

The average car payment today is closer to $400 per month and that’s with financial institutions stretching the terms to 72-84 and 120 months. Something has gone terribly wrong in the psyche of consumers to even imagine that an automobile will not become obsolete before it is all paid up, 6, 7 or 10 years down the road.

All they really need to do is take a look at a vehicle sold in 1995, 1997 or 1999, to get a live preview of what their new car will look like and potentially what it will be worth. Interestingly, research indicates that most Americans get bored with a car after driving it for 24-36 months. Why then would the typical financing term be 72-120 months?

At the point of purchase, most consumers tend to forget that car payments never include the cost of insurance, required maintenance and gas. When these items are added to a car payment, it can easily exceed what some people are paying in mortgages.

It’s analogous to the Middle Eastern people like Iranians whose culture practices beating themselves on the back with chains and whips. Every month, millions of Americans face the self-inflicted pain of making another car payment. Like the Iranians, they believe that if they can do it, it must be good and it will somehow make them better people in the hereafter.

A self-made millionaire, Dr. Cooper, an advocate for reversing unnecessary consumer debt has come up with a simple plan to change how we think of automobile ownership. His plan uses the same philosophy that our grand fathers grew up with, i.e. never buy anything that you cannot afford to pay for out of your own pocket.

Unfortunately, if we lived by those rules we would need traffic lights and zebra crossings on our major highways because they would be packed with pedestrians.

Well let’s share Dr. Cooper’s plan. He calls it the “Vehicle Saving Fund”. This is a basic commercial bank savings account that can be started at any local bank. To make it more meaningful to you, lets call it the “Freedom From Car Payment Fund.” Anyone can start such a fund; it does not matter if they are currently financing a vehicle.

The idea is that if you intend to be a productive member of society and enjoy the benefits of your labor you will need to have personal transportation. This is not optional for most people who do not live in a big city where public transportation is available. The fund should be considered absolutely necessary, much like the rent or mortgage, it’s a living expense.

Here is how it works; if you are currently driving a financed vehicle, resolve to pay it off in its normal term. It’s hard to keep making payment on a vehicle you do not like but that’s where the discipline becomes important. Also, resolve to put aside a small amount every month to your “Freedom From Car Payment” account. Initially, it is totally understandable that it may be a little difficult but the amount is not important, it’s the habit and the psychology of doing it that makes all the difference. You can start with as little as $5-$10-$25 just be committed to doing it every month until it becomes a habit.

You will also have to make a decision to continue driving the vehicle you are currently paying, this plan does not work if you decide that you need a new vehicle before paying off the one you are driving. The closer you are to your end of term, the better position you will be in to get what you want. But there is no rush, when you pay it off you should then begin to put the amount of your previous payment into your vehicle fund. Now with the equity in your current vehicle and your savings you can begin shopping.

Considering the prices of automobiles today, there is a high probability that because of your vehicle depreciation and the small savings, you might not have enough money to buy a new vehicle. If you do not have enough to purchase what you want, there are always other options; the first is to buy what you can afford. The alternative (worst-case scenario) is facing the dealer with no savings and having negative equity in the vehicle you are currently driving.

Strange concept, I know, but when its all said and done, transportation is transportation, it gets you from point A to point B. The only difference is what you are willing to pay to get there. For many, because of the values they hold “whatever it takes” is an appropriate answer but the mind set has to now change to discipline and the desire to stop making lifetime payments.

If you don’t have a car right now and are enjoying the bliss of not having a financial obligation to an automobile, you can begin your savings immediately so that when the time comes you will have a sizable chunk to begin your search for your new car. You are in a very good position if you are not in the market presently looking for a vehicle.

You have the time to save and plan for your next automobile. Begin the “Freedom From Car Payments Fund” today and in a couple of years you will really be much better off. Contrary to what dealers try to make you believe, car ownership does require long term planning in order to break the cycle of swapping payments every 3-4 years. It is a long term serious investment.

It’s that simple. Easy, no but simple, and it can be done. It requires discipline and patience two characteristics that are not easily harnessed in by the now generation. The obvious benefit is no car payment but you will also save on insurance and have much more disposable income for other necessities. With determination, a little vision and planning anyone can drive exactly what they want; without the burden of a monthly payment. Could that be you?

I can think of many occasions when friends and family have chosen to part exchange in their existing vehicle for a new one every year or two, but nowadays it seems as though you are no better off buying a new vehicle than you are by purchasing a used one, and I’ll try and explain why.

Anyone who has ever bought a new vehicle and has come to the point of selling it some years later, has probably been in the situation where they’ll ask “Is that all it’s worth, I paid X amount for it only two years ago”. This is because the value of a new vehicle falls dramatically as soon as it is driven out of the showroom.

Furthermore, if value is important to you, finding a bargain of a used bentley can be very satisfying, and also financially rewarding. There is sometimes the conception that buying a used vehicle can be risky and that it will end up with one problem or another, although, the skills of engineers over the past years has shown to produce bentleys that are more reliable and more maintenance-free than ever before.

Even though this is possibly the case, the importance of performing vehicle checks on used vehicles is high, as it can highlight any hidden past that a vehicle may have and also show any potential problems.

The potential for loss on a vehicle is also much less on a bentley that has had several previous owners in comparison to a vehicle that has had just one owner. As mentioned earlier, a large chunk of the vehicle value is lost once it has left the dealership, and continues to decrease steeply over the first few years. However there usually gets to a point when the vehicle levels out and doesn’t lose as high a percentage of its’ value year on year. This is where the money loss from buying the vehicle to when it is sold can be a lot less when choosing a used bentley.

However, this isn’t to say that brand new bentleys are not worth looking at should you wish to. You can have the peace of mind that you are buying a new bentley with no problems and rest assured that it is a vehicle without a hidden past, and it also may be important to you to drive a new vehicle. You can also of course purchase any upgrades available for your bentley and virtually have the bentley made to your specification, within reason.

In summary, due mainly to manufacturers and engineers, the durability and reliability of previously owned vehicles means that they are no less a value than a new bentley. As the price of new bentleys climbs, the popularity of used vehicles looks to continue to soar higher than ever. There are benefits to buying both types of vehicles, either new or used, but one thing for certain is that previously owned vehicles are more reliable than ever.